Continuous Join-as-you-go (Again!)

Continuous Join-as-you-go (CJAYG) *Again!*

Make this 20″ cushion cover with me and learn the CJAYG. πŸ™‚

I decided to make another tutorial for this joining method because I get so many questions about it, and it’s soooo great! I have given a lot of linky love to the cyber-folks that I learned from, and you can see those links in my original tutorial. I also have a “main page” about the CJAYG – see it here

For this tutorial, you can use a soft, sturdy economical powerhouse like KnitPicks Brava Sport. See a full review of this yarn on my crafty site.

This tutorial has slightly different methods from my original tutorial because I did a Slip Stitch join instead of a “twist” join like in the pink Sunburst Granny Square blanket from the original.

Since I am making a cushion cover here, I thought it would be perfect since I could capture the whole process in one photo frame for a *hopefully* easier-to-understand visual.

Also, this picture that I lifted off of the website shows a SCARY visual of the path that we will be taking with this join. It is super-scary, but once you get it, it’s a great visual aid.


Okay, let’s get started!

Pattern Notes/Terms:

US Terminology, Worsted weight yarn remnants, K/6.5mm hook

When I say “space” I mean “chain space”

Ch-n = Chain n times

SC = Single crochet, DC = Double crochet, TR = Treble crochet

Slst = Slip stitch


Make 9 circles in the Flowers in the Snow (Ravelry link) pattern style.

{Magic Ring, Rnd 1: 12 (DC, Ch-1) in ring, Rnd 2: (2DC, Ch-1) in every space, Rnd 3: (3DC, Ch-1) in every space}

Begin Continuous Join:

This join is made in one continuous movement from start to finish, so please make sure you have enough yarn to complete your entire blanket join – all motifs (if possible).

Pick up your first circle and attach the joining yarn with a Slst in any space. (SC, Ch-4, 3TR) all in same space. Ch-1, (3DC in next space, Ch-1) twice, (3TR, Ch-2, 3TR) all in next space, Ch-1 (3DC in next space, Ch-1) twice, 3TR in next space, Ch-2.

See my cute and sporty pink and black scissors in the photo below?  You are now at the top of the handle.

**NOTE: If you work this exactly as I have told you (and as the scary visual aid up above shows), you will NOT end up in the corner of your piece when you join and finish off or work another round plain. I like to start and end up in a corner. To do that, locate my starting point in the photo below, count 3 spaces to the right of that spot, and attach your yarn there instead. Work 3 sides instead of 2 as I have done, and you will end up in the same spot at the top of the scissors handle, but you’ll have the top edge of the circle worked, too. I wish I’d done it, but I didn’t. Hmph.


Pick up the next motif, 3TR in any space, position your circle with the 3TR on either side of the Ch-2 end to end like I have in the photo and Slst in the space across the way (this is a joining maneuver). The Slst here also replaces your Ch-1. (3DC in the next space on your motif-in-progress, Slst in the space across) twice, (3TR, Ch-2, 3TR) in next space. Now, you are at the edge up and to the left of the scissors handle. Notice I did not join corners. I don’t do it yet because I like for diagonal corners to “reach” out to each other in the form of an X. I’ll get to that later.

Ch-1, (3DC in next space, Ch-1) twice, (3TR, Ch-2, 3TR) in next space, Ch-1, (3DC in next space, Ch-1) twice, 3TR in next space, Ch-2. Now you are at the same point as I am in the photo below.


Pick up your next motif and work in the same way beginning from under the line of asterisks that you see above. You can see that I end up at a Ch-2. My motif grid is only 3×3, so this Ch-2 marks the end of my motif row. No matter how many motifs you have, you will work across them, doing 3 sides in this manner and this is where you will end up at the end – working only 2 sides on the last motif.


The next motif that you join will be in the position of the pink circle with the turquoise center in the photo below.

Pick up the motif and work 3TR in any space. Slst in the space across (this is the same joining method from before), (3DC in the next space, Slst in the space to join) twice, 3TR in the next space. Ch-1, Slst in the Ch-2 corner space that is located diagonally (to the upper left).

Pick up your next motif (for me it is the center motif), 3TR in any space, Slst to join, (3DC in next space, Slst to join) twice, 3TR in next space, Ch-1, Slst in diagonal Ch-2 corner space. Now, you are where I am in the photo below.

You can see that I leave the *other* corner hangin’ out waiting to be picked up. I’ll get to that. πŸ™‚


Pick up your next motif (in my case it is the orange-edge one. 3TR in any space, Slst to join, (3DC in next space, Slst to join) twice, 3TR in next space. Now, you are meeting the place where you started (unless you were industrious and wanted to start in the corner of the piece, of course).

Slst in the Ch-4 space and Ch-1. 3TR in the same space to complete the corner, Ch-1, (3DC in next space, Ch-1) twice, (3TR, Ch-2, 3TR) all in next space. Now you are where I am in the photo below.


Ch-1, (3DC in next space, Ch-1) twice, 3TR in the same space as the next 3TR.

Here’s where we do some corner magic.

Release the loop from the hook. Insert your hook in the corner that’s still hangin’ out un-picked-up from before, put the loop back on your hook, Now you are where I am in the photo below.


Pull the loop through that corner space and make a chain. Ch-1 again just to give yourself some space to do your next move.

Release the loop from your hook again and insert your hook in the corner as it is shown in the photo below. Put the loop back on the hook. Now you are where I am in the photo below.


In the photo above, my hook is under everything. When you pull that loop through where you have your hook inserted, make a chain. Ch-1 again. 3TR in the space where your 3TR is in the next motif down (mine is the center motif) and Slst to join. Now you are where I am in the photo below.

Admire your beautiful corner. πŸ™‚


Fast-forwarding here, I’ll just say the next part is nothing new. Slst to join, notice that the corners at the upper right of the photo below are unworked because this is not my final motif row. I’ll be picking those corners up just like I did on this row. In the photo below, you are ready to pick up your next motif which for me will be the one located above the pink motif with the turquoise center. You have chained 2 and you’re ready to go.


Pick up your next motif and 3TR in any space (for me this was the dark blue motif with the purple center shown in the bottom right of the photo below). Work just like you did before, joining your motifs on, picking up diagonal corners, and leaving the other corner to hang out. I’ve shown this all below.

At the end of the row, you will Slst in the outer Ch-2 space, Ch-1, and 3TR in the same space to complete the corner. Again, you pick up this corner because it’s on the final perimeter of the piece.


In the photo below, I have worked my zig-zag back down my piece, completing my corners. Review the photos above.

For me, this is my last row of motifs, so now, when I come back down the side, I won’t be attaching more motifs.

All of my outside corners are now joined as well as you can see in the upper right of the photo.

Where I am in the photo below is as follows:

You will make the (3TR, Ch-2, 3TR) corner as shown in the upper left of the piece. Work the usual 3DC groups and 3TR in the same space as the other 3TR to complete the corner. Now you are where I am in the photo below.

At this point, Ch-1, Slst in Ch-2 space, Ch-1, and 3TR in same space as previous 3TR to complete corner. This is a complete make-shift join here. It’s a substitution for the real thing, since we did the continuous join.

3DC in the spaces with the Ch-1 in between, and work your way around the blanket – this is the home stretch.


In the photo below, you are done! Join with a Slst in the second chain directly above the beginning SC.

As you can see, you don’t end up in a corner – boooo! πŸ˜‰ You can cut yarn and re-attach in a corner, but I’m not keen on breaking yarn when I don’t absolutely have to.


I worked SC, Ch-1, decrease 2 DC together over the next two spaces, DC in second corner space – If you are confused here, please refer to the Bunny Mummy tutorial on how to make an edge on a granny square blanket that does not ripple/ruffle.

(3DC, Ch-1) in all spaces around, performing your Bunny Mummy trick in the points where you have two grannies meeting. This can be seen in the photo below as the funny-looking 3DC toward the upper left…..

At this point, feel free to SC around, making 3SC in the corners, and then make a reverse SC round. Make another identical side, sew them together with right sides together (leaving one side open), make Ch-2 loops as button holes down one side of the opening, sew buttons down the other side, shove a 20-22″ pillow in, close your buttons up, and call it a night! (LOL)


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71 thoughts on “Continuous Join-as-you-go (Again!)

  1. Thank you so much for your detailed instructions & your beautiful photos! I am going to use your instructions to make a mini version of your pattern to make a barbie dress for my grandaughter!

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